H&M

L’ETHIQUE, LE MUST-HAVE INCONTOURNABLE ?

4 ans ont passé depuis l’effondrement du Rana Plaza au Bangladesh ! Quels sont les effets sur notre façon de consommer le fast-fashion ?

Habillé(e) tendance = Bien habillé(e) ?
Créé après la catastrophe, le mouvement Fashion Revolution a fait de nombreuses opérations pour sensibiliser les gens aux conséquences de l’industrie de la fast-fashion. Changer notre façon de consommer la mode est un réel challenge : le shopping est devenu plus simple et plus rapide avec les achats en ligne, l’augmentation du nombre de YouTubers vous disant ce que sont les “must-have” des vêtements, des sacs, du maquillage vous amène à étendre votre liste de courses, les collections augmentent continuellement (plus de 20 par an pour Zara et jusqu’à 16 pour H & M selon The Economist) et l’envie d’avoir des messages / images / vidéos aimés devient toujours trop forte.

Le développement durable, un “driver” de la mode
Dans The state of fashion, le premier rapport conjoint de McKinsey et Business of Fashion, nous apprenons que “2016 peut être résumée en trois mots: incertain, changeant et difficile” par les professionnels de la mode à travers le monde. Parmi les tendances de l’industrie de la mode de 2016, le rapport souligne que «[…] Les consommateurs et les marques ont privilégié la mode durable, qui transforme la conception et la fabrication des produits», «plus de 65% des consommateurs des marchés émergents [qui] recherchent activement une mode durable contre 32% ou moins sur les marchés matures “. À quoi s’attendre pour 2017? Selon le rapport, “l’acheteur le plus astucieux se caractérisera par 6 qualités principales: mieux informé, toujours “on”, plus exigeant, plus conscient, plus volatil, connecté aux autres.”

the_state_of_fashion_2017_cover

Source: The State of Fashion 2017 – page 70

Conscient de cette tendance, de nombreuses nouvelles marques éthiques se sont répandues sur le marché. Outre les marques que je cite habituellement (TOMS, Veja, Faguo, Ekyog, Hamilton Perkins, WWoW etc.), il y a aussi Reformation (2009), Matt & Nat (1995), Birdsong (2014), Le Bijou Parisien (2015), et les boutiques en ligne telles que Rêve En Vert et Gather & See, qui rassemblent toutes les marques éthiques en un seul endroit.

birdsong

Source: Birdsong

Qu’en est-il de la consommation?

IN 2014 SUSTAINABILITY IS NO LONGER AN OPTION

Since the beginning of this column, tips and best practices examples taken from organizations have been given. Other media, even your favorite celebrities are giving some DO’s of how to live sustainably or acting more sustainably. Of course, the first common reaction is: “nice but this involves a budget! Not anyone can afford it”. True. Besides, the reality from which we cannot escape is that (1) we are living in a fast-moving consumption world (2) where greener products are more expensive (3) and old consuming (bad) habits are difficult to change. 2050 is coming soon and common efforts should be made by then. Therefore, shall brands lead us to live more sustainably? Actually, rather than wondering what we should expect from brands for this New Year, let’s wonder what is expected from them?

At Changi Airport, Singapore

At Changi Airport, Singapore

So far…

  • More and more actions are made to raise awareness among people but also within organizations.
  • Organizations are moving forward in engaging their employees, e.g. use of recycling garbage bins, internal training even in Turkey (!).
  • Standards for reporting are increasing; Sustainability Accounting Standards have recently started to be defined per sector.
  • A basic criteria in some brand campaigns, such as Unilever, BASF, Coca Cola, Pepsi, Levi’s, Marks & Spencer, H&M campaigns.

  • Thinking locally is more and more popular, this matters more to consumers. For example, Tropicana’s last campaign in Turkey showed the use of local fruits for the production of its famous fruit juice.
  • Public contribution is more and more required to ensure organization’s strategy is in line with its target audience.

1960’s = consumer society, 2010’s = caring-consumer society?

How to integrate more sustainability in our way of consuming daily? Going on raising people’s awareness and educate people in using better way of consuming. But time is passing and to reach a wide audience and have large impacts, leading brands may show us the way, since their investments in marketing and advertising are already quite significant. What better than campaigns to communicate sustainability values and best practices? Some leading brands already started to pave the way…

  • In 2010, Levi’s in collaboration with Procter & Gamble made a campaign to inform customers about how to take care of their jeans: the best way being not washing them! With cold water if necessary.
  • In 2012, Patagonia encouraged customers not to purchase more than necessary during the holiday season with its “Don’t Buy This Jacket” campaign.

Patagonia

  • In 2012, M&S started Shwopping, a program inviting people to donate their clothes of any brand each and every time they buy something new. Shwopped clothes are given to Oxfam.

marksspencer

  • H&M is not only the world’s largest buyer of organic cotton. In 2013, the second-largest clothing retailer in the world launched a quite similar operation: “Long live fashion!”. Customers are invited to give any clothe of any brand in any condition into an H&M store. In exchange, they receive a 15% discount voucher on their next item purchased per bag donated. The purpose of this operation is to reduce the amount of clothes ending up in landfill by being recycled by H&M’s partner: I:Collect.

h&m

  • In 2012, the World Bank highlighted in a report on municipal solid waste (MSW), that the world’s cities are generating around 1.3 billion tons of MSW a year, with nearly half of it generated by OECD countries. Therefore retailers and food companies have a big challenge: educate consumers to not buy excessively and create more waste. M&S took the challenge by: (1) educating customers on how to shop better and reduce waste at home using leftovers through animated games; (2) improving its packaging technology so that perishable food products can be kept longer; (3) diverting many foods from landfill; (4) decreasing prices of food products closed to be expired; (5) donating, composting or diverting not saleable food to anaerobic digesters for energy. Inspiring!

ms2

Agencies: a key role?

Communication is key, interacting and collaborating with its target audience and more generally with people, are essential to engage change towards sustainable lifestyle. Creativity is thus a ‘MUST’ required to attract people’s attention. So here enter major game players: agencies. Their main role is to translate the message of companies. And if these companies want to show their commitment to sustainability, then agencies have to find new creative ideas to communicate on this matter. They must create authentic content, create new challenges for people that turn sustainable actions into entertaining activities, and create new ideas to raise more and more awareness.

This year, hopefully, we will see more brands, more collaboration, more actions towards a common target: engaging people and make things (really) happen sustainably.