Des labels ou des certifications telles que B-Corp ou Fair Wear Foundation peuvent augmenter autant que les «consommateurs astucieux» augmentent. Fair Wear Foundation est un organisme indépendant à but non lucratif qui «travaille avec les marques et les influenceurs de l’industrie pour améliorer les conditions de travail où vos vêtements sont fabriqués», à travers la vérification et le suivi des améliorations apportées. Cependant, la meilleure solution semble acheter plus intelligemment, en achetant moins, en achetant des articles durables et/ou recyclés …

Le nouveau centre commercial
Selon Global Footprint Network, en 2013, notre planète avait suffisamment de ressources pour que chacun de nous consomme 1,72 “hectares globaux” (global hectares, gha) par an – une unité standardisée qui mesure l’utilisation des ressources et les déchets. 1,39 correspond à peu près à ce que la personne moyenne en Afrique consomme. En revanche, dans d’autres régions de la planète, les gens consomment environ 2,31 gha par personne en Asie, 4,32 gha par personne en Europe, 8,6 gha par personne en Amérique du Nord, plusieurs fois leur part dédiée. Le moment de changer vous pensez? En Suède, le premier centre commercial ReTuna Återbruksgalleria vendant des produits, des objets, des meubles et des vêtements recyclés ou upcyclés a ouvert en 2015 grâce à un partenariat avec la municipalité. Un grand compromis entre faire des affaires et un meilleur consumérisme. Nous pouvons peut-être y trouver des sacs Ikea recyclés !


Source: Progrss


Source: Independent

Montrer l’exemple aux plus jeunes ?


It has already been 4 years since the collapse of the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh! What are the after-effects on our way of consuming fast-fashion?

Looking fashion = looking good?
Created after the catastrophe, the movement Fashion Revolution has made many operations to raise people awareness about the consequences of fast-fashion industry . Change our way of consuming fashion is challenging: buying things has become easier and faster with online shopping, the rise of more and more YouTubers telling you what are the “must-have” in clothing, bags, make-up leads you to extend your wish list, collections are continuously increasing (more than 20a year for Zara and up to 16 for H&M according to The Economist) and the crave for having posts/pictures/videos liked is going stronger.

Sustainability, as a driver for fashion
In The state of fashion, the first joint report from McKinsey and the Business of Fashion, we learn that “2016 can be summarized in three words: uncertain, changing, and challenging” by fashion executives around the world. Among the fashion industry trends of 2016, the report highlights that “[…] Consumers and brands have prioritized sustainable fashion, which is transforming product design and manufacturing”, with “more than 65% of emerging market consumers [who] actively seek sustainable fashion versus 32% or less in mature markets”. What to expect for 2017? According the report, “the shrewder shopper will be characterized by 6 main qualities: better informed, always “on”, more demanding, more conscious, more volatile, connected to others.”


Source: The State of Fashion 2017 – page 70

Aware of such trend, many new ethical brands have spread over the market. Besides the brands I usually quote (TOMS, Veja, Faguo, Ekyog, Hamilton Perkins, WWoW etc.), there are also Reformation (2009), Matt & Nat (1995), Birdsong (2014), Le Bijou Parisien (2015), and online boutiques such as Rêve En Vert and Gather & See, which are collecting all ethical brands in one place.


Source: Birdsong

What about consumption?
Labels or certifications such as B-Corp or Fair Wear Foundation may increase as much as “shrewder consumers” increase. Fair Wear Foundation is an independent, non-profit organization, who “works with brands and industry influencers to improve working conditions where your clothing is made” through verification and keeping track of improvements made. However, the best solution seems to be buying smarter, by buying less and sustainable and or recycled items…

The new mall model
According to Global Footprint Network, in 2013, our planet only had enough resources for each of us to consume 1,72 “global hectares” (gha) per year – a standardized unit that measures resource use and waste. 1,39 corresponds roughly to what the average person in Africa consumes. By contrast, in other regions of the planet, people consume about 2,31 gha per person in Asia, 4,32 gha per person in Europe, 8,6 gha per person in North America, many times their fair share. Time to change you think? In Sweden, the first shopping mall ReTuna Återbruksgalleria selling recycled or upcycled products, objects, furniture and garments has opened in 2015, thanks to a partnership with the municipality. A great compromise between making business and better consumerism. We may find recycled Ikea bags for sale!


Source: Progrss


Source: Independent

Teaching the young ones by doing
Better consumption, eating organic, ethical values are spread more and more through films (like the last Disney, Moana) and ads to teach the young ones how to better consume. The recent Carrefour campaigns are answering children’s questions about consumption by raising their awareness about sustainability issues: “why we should not give antibiotics to chicken?”, “why we should not give GMOs to animals?”, “why local products are better?”.

La Qualité Alimentaire, ça change quoi ? Carrefour, meilleur chaque jour (pub TV 2017)

Books are also a good way to convey messages and values. Be the Change Books are a series of children’s books about environmental issues, each with a funny story and clear pointers to what we can all do, or here the story of Petite Plume about solidarity. Other means: toys! Sonia Singh, a Tasmanian artist improves discarded dolls by repairing them and giving them a “new down-to-earth style”, at such a point that little children prefer to play with the upcycled Tree Change Dolls rather than the original ones. Wendy Tsao went further by changing the dolls into heroes like Jane Goodall, Malala Yousafzai, J.K. Rowling, Roberta Bondar or Waris Dirie.

Tree Change Dolls I The Feed

Convinced to be ethical-fashion addict?


Here comes the last month of the year. You have already noted it because the weather has changed, people around you, are increasingly sneezing and coughing, the days are shorter and of course all shops and malls remind you that you have only some days left to fulfill all the wish-lists you received. Part of this end year period, you also probably noted all the charities which are looking for more help and donations. Your sensitivity and kindness are mostly affected during this month, resulting in a melted feeling between joy – as you are gathering with family, friends and amazed by light decorations in the city – and sadness – as you feel some guilt for the ones who are less lucky than you are. How to feel good then?

Acting well?
Media were overwhelmed by many political events this year. But the main one remains the Syrian crisis. Like the campaign made by Save the Children in 2014, Most Shocking Second a Day, Ikea and the Red Cross have created an in store communication operation to raise awareness about the Syrian crisis in its Slependen, Norway flagship store. Among the well-known perfect showrooms, there was one that was the exact replica of a real Syrian residence in Damascus: Rana and her family of 9’s home. The famous tags where you usually read some exotic names such as “KNOXHULT”, challenging to pronounce if you don’t speak Swedish, and its description, in the temporary showroom the tags contains descriptions of how people live, survive, and how to help. This 25m² of Syria installation was live from 17-31 October, seen by about 40 000 visitors weekly and enabled the raise of about 22 million euros for the Red Cross’ efforts in Syria.

Most Shocking Second a Day Video from SaveTheChildren.

25m2 SYRIA from POL on Vimeo.

Acting better?
Combining purchases and charities is something that grows more and more in business models. One of them is TOMS. Their operation “One for One” started with shoes. For a pair of shoes bought, a pair of shoes is given to a child in need. According to The Economist, in 2012 TOMS asked a group of academics to investigate to find out if its operations worked. The findings were that handing out the free shoes had “no effect on overall shoelessness, shoe ownership (older shoes were presumably thrown away), general health, foot health or self-esteem”, leaving the company with room for improvements. TOMS changed its strategy to have a (real) big impact; for examples “One for One”:

  • on eyewear: for each TOMS Eyewear purchased, a free sight-correction is provided to a person in need
  • on coffee: each bag of TOMS Roasting Co. Coffee provides a week’s supply of water to a person in need (140 liters)
  • on bags: TOMS Bags purchased support training needed to help provide a safe birth and training of school staff and crisis counselors to help prevent and respond to instances of bullying

Source: TOMS

Acting well and better
In the need of ideas for wish-list? Tired of receiving knitted sweater? Why not asking for garments that are made of recycled materials? Even football starts to come on this field! In collaboration with Parley, Adidas has announced the creation of new jerseys for Real Madrid and Bayern Munich: monochrome jersey made of recycled plastic collected from the ocean. Like other brands that started this process before, such as G-Star, Adidas extends the change switch by reaching football fans.


Source: Adidas

Besides more and more new fashion brands have entered the field and offer eco-responsible products: Faguo, Veja, Ekyog, or from young entrepreneurs such as WWoW, Hamilton Perkins Collection.

FAGUO // Les premiers pas from FAGUO.

Feeling good? Hopefully yes! In any case I wish you happy end-year celebrations!